Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. The Street/Strip and race cam setups tend to be too rich initially. Thanks in advance for any advice. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. If they are closed, check the primaries. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? Jun 12, 2021. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. If you haven't installed a The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Its timed to 36 degrees. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Reply Quote. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. It does this with the engine off. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. It could be a couple of things. Thanks, That is an strange situation. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Also its extremely rich at idle. mail today. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Jump on board now! Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. Overview. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Always had to set idle above 950. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. All times are GMT-6. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. So something is triggering the ECU to be in Open Loop. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. Earl's Mechanical Fuel Pressure GaugeI could use that for a quick troubleshooting for 1/3rd the cost of the Holley one. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. idles good, runs amazing. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) Try it! But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. I appreciate everything you are saying. If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. Thanks for your very detailed question! One of the best Ive seen so far. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. you have it set. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your Chris thank you for the info. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. This item: Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black $71.72 Holley Sniper EFI 870001 Throttle Position Sensor $34.60 Holley 860004-1 92MM Sniper Throttle BDY $223.93 Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Holley EFI Idle Air Control (Iac) Valve Motor 30 13 offers from $79.56 You could go either way.. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Others might require 60 RPM. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? Thanks for all your help Chris! )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. Nice to meet you. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. If so remove it. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. Super helpful and knowledgeable. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. Then Friday night as I was driving home, the car started acting up. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Then it started behaving oddly. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. Save Share. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. Definitely would have went with you guys. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. Only show this user . My problem is low idle. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. Good luck! Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. Thanks. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. What an amazing site you have here. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. Hello Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Hello. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. So you installed your Holley Sniper. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? Free ground shipping regardless of order size! Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. I will turn it up some. The IAC reads 36 when at idle fully warmed up. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750.

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